How to Spend 2 Nights in Marfa, Texas

Marfa is difficult to get to. There are no major airports nearby. If you are coming by car, you are likely taking a 3-hour drive from El Paso or, a nearly 6-hour drive from San Antonio. However, the fact that this art oasis appears seemingly in the middle of nowhere is part of the town’s appeal.

Marfa’s slow-paced lifestyle offers a welcome reprieve from the bustle of the city. Don’t be fooled though, Marfa is anything but a sleepy little town.

Marfa has a population just below 2,000 but, what it lacks in size it makes up for in character. Starting with its lively and vibrant art scene.

In 1971, artist Donald Judd moved from New York to Marfa and began installing large. scale art installations. Today, the Chinati Foundation and the Judd Foundation continue this artistic endeavor. The Chinati Foundation now operates more than 30 buildings in Marfa and has permanently displayed work by 13 artists.

Marfa’s extensive art collection is rivaled only but the town’s natural beauty. At night, the sky transforms into a dazzling show of lights. If your lucky, you can see the mysterious and elusive Marfa lights. Another perk of the town’s remote location.

Getting To Marfa

I arrived in Marfa from San Antonio just after sunset. The path into town is a two-lane road that stretches through a desert landscape. The only obstruction to your view of the horizon as you drive in is the occasional cactus, desert brush, or windmill silhouetted in the sunset. In other words, it’s the exact picture you have in your mind of a West Texas drive.

Day 1: Check in

There is only a handful of hotels in Marfa so make sure to book your accommodations in advance.

For a unique experience, stay at El Cosmico a self-described “Bohemian West Texas Nomadic Hotel.” You have the option for self-camping or, to post up in one of the tipis, safari tents, yurts, or airstream trailers on the property. This is glamping at its finest. Rooms are well-equipped with queen-sized beds, rugs, and, electricity.

Staying at El Cosmico in the winter months comes with a warning. The bathrooms are outside and, the camping areas, tipis, and tents can get a bit chilly as the temperature often dips below freezing!

Check out my post on El Cosmico to read more about it.

During my stay, temperatures were forecast to be in the 20s. Because I’m terrified of the cold, I opted for the Reata Inn. Movie buffs will recognize this name as a nod to James Dean’s ranch in the movie Giant which, was filmed in the area. The Riata’s a motel style hotel with large rooms and plenty of heat. Rooms are simple with a little bit of Texas flair.

Grab a Drink and a Late Night Snack

After settling in at the hotel, I wasn’t quite ready for bed so I headed over to the Lost Horse Saloon. It’s a cozy and friendly place with a dive bar feel. I got a plate of mac and cheese and a margarita and headed to the back outdoor seating area. They had a couple of fires going and both locals and visitors were gathered around them chatting. I got a couple of great local tips from some of the patrons and then headed out just as “Christmas karaoke” was beginning.

Day 2: Coffee and Breakfast

Start your day off with some breakfast and coffee at the Sentinel a modern and minimal cafe and shop. Or try Buns and Roses, a breakfast joint inside a metal shed that serves up classic breakfast favorites.

Explore the Shops and Galleries

Much of what you’ll want to go in Marfa can be accessed on foot. Park in the center of town and enjoy a nice afternoon stroll walking to all the shops and galleries. Here are a few you will not want to miss.

Wrong-A cute artsy store selling prints, cards, and local artwork.
Esperanza vintage– a second-hand store specializing in Western Wear & Decor. The owner’s husband is also an artist. His works are on display and are for sale in the shop.
Ballroom Marfa- non-profit showcasing artists working in the visual arts performance film in music.
Chinati Foundation-a contemporary Art Museum founded by Donald Judd. It houses large scale installation by Judd and many other artists.
Greasewood gallery- a rotating collection of work by regional artists is displayed inside the historic Hotel Paisano,
Judd Foundation- guided tours of Donald Judds working space in downtown Marfa. Tour his studio, including viewings of his early works, and his living quarters.

Lunch

Weiner town– a no-frills lunch stand serving a wide variety of hot dogs.
Pizza Foundation – New York-style pizza in Texas.
Marfa Burrito– Delicious burritos. Everything is fresh and homemade.

More Exploring

Go check out Marfa Open just off the main road. It’s an old train depot turned art gallery, community centre and venue. It also hosts an artist in residency program.

Marfa is also full of murals ad other public art. Walk around and take it in!

Dinner Time

The Water Stop- Great food and drinks with indoor and outdoor seating. I enjoyed a spot nexts to the outdoor fireplace.

Star Gazing

One of the big draws to Marfa is the mysterious Marfa lights. As you drive into town towards El Paso, you will see a sign for the Marfa lights viewing station. A few feet later, on your left, you will see a station that looks like a truck stop. Go slow or you might miss it. You can walk out to the platform and try your luck at viewing the Marfa lights. There is a record of people seeing the lights as far back as the 1880s but on the two nights that I went, they were nowhere in sight.

Even if you can see the lights, the viewing station is still a fantastic place to stop and look at the stars. Away from the big cities, the stars are so clear and beautiful.

You can also visit McDonald’s Observatory. It’s is about 30 minutes outside Marfa. The observatory hosts constellation tours and star parties on Tuesday, Wednesday, Friday, and Saturday evenings.

Day 3: Head Out of Town

Two of the most photographed “Marfa” attractions are actually not in Marfa. They are in the neighboring town of Valentine. When driving towards El Paso, you will come across the “Giant” cutouts by artist John Cerney first. Huge pop art cutouts of James Dean, Elizabeth Taylor, and some of the set pieces for the movie Giant (filmed in Marfa) protrude from the desert landscape. In the background, old western music is pumped from the installation and plays on a loop.

About 25 minutes from the Giant cutouts, you will reach the Prada store. Don’t get your hopes up for any shopping though. The store is a permanent sculptural art installation by artists Elmgreen and Dragset and, is described by them as a “pop architectural land art project,” You can see why it is so popular to photograph. The high-end store and the vast West Texas background make for an odd and beautiful pairing.